Day Five - Red Bay, Labrador, CA - Wednesday 16 July 2014

Lowering the Tender on Deck Six!

There were "big doings" on Deck Six by the time I arrived at 6:30 am.  Part of the deck was blocked off as the "Tenders" were being readied for our arrival in Red Bay, Labrador.

We had a leisurely breakfast -- getting off the ship about 9:00 am after all the "tours" had departed.  Red Bay is small -- one cannot possible get lost here. 

After a very short walk into "town" -- we stopped at Whaler's Restaurant -- where they had a gift shop and a few simple exhibits on the history of Red Bay.   I bought a postcard to send to my Aunt Maureen -- they also mailed it for me.   Our next stop mid-way up the hill was an old cemetery right in the middle of everything with  pretty stones dating back to the 19th Century.

Pat in the Cemetery -- notice the barren landscape!

We continued up the hill to the Visitor Orientation Center where we paid our $17 entrance fee  (for both of us) which included a 30 minute film, a whaling exhibit, entrance to a museum near Whaler's Restaurant and the shuttle boat to Saddle Island.  

The film, "The Basque Whalers of Labrador"  tells about the whaling industry in this area during the 16th century.   About 1540 the Basques were drawn to this part of Canada for seasonal whaling expeditions.  At its peak the Basques had 50 ships with  crews of up to 75 on each ship crossing the  Atlantic in pursuit of Bowhead and North Atlantic Right Whales.  These particular whales were easy to approach because of their slow movement and proximity to shore.   Each of these expeditions lasted about eight months during which whales were hunted, their blubber was rendered into oil, and put into wooden barrels for the trip back home.  Whale oil was used all over Europe for clean lighting fuel, paints and varnishes as well as a lubricating agent. 

Phil with left flipper of a Bowhead Whale!

Beginning in 1978 -- fourteen years of archaeological research in Red Bay  unearthed thousands of artifacts related to this period.  Underwater archaeological work  revealed the remains of four 16th Century galleons.  One is believed to be the San Juan -- a vessel loaded with more than 800 barrels of oil.  The San Juan broke its anchor in Red Bay Harbor during a storm and sank in 1565.  This ship was dismantled, recorded and returned to the habor and the environment which helped to preserve it for over 400 years.

Underneath the ship thought to be the San Juan -- was a "chalupa" --- now on display at the Visitor Orientation Center.   Chalupas were used for the actual whale hunt with six to seven crew members on board. 

An actual 16th Century Chalupa

 Our next stop is back down the hill to the museum building -- which held two floors of artifacts all relating to the Basque Whaling Industry.   On Saddle Island there is a Whalers' Cemetery where over 100 bodies were discovered buried in only 60 graves.  Because of the climate here -- the clothing on these bodies was somewhat well preserved and on display in the museum.   Although a bit eerie -- it was compelling to see shirts and pants that would have been worn by someone so long ago.

Phil decided it was time for a local beer so it was back to Whaler's Restaurant -- we had french fries with a beer and a cup of coffee before getting in line for the shuttle to Saddle Isalnd.  The shuttle holds ten people -- it is not a long distance so before we knew it we were making our way along the trails and boardwalks on the island.

It was quite windy and chilly -- but the view of Red Bay from the island was quite nice as was the view of the ms Veendam.   We walked to the tip of Saddle Island to see the wreck of the "Bernier" (sunk in 1965) then around the other side of the island  in a loop to the dock.  As we got off the the shuttle we realized we'd been in Red Bay for almost 6 hours -- amazing how much there was to see and do here.

Town of Red Bay from Saddle Island!

We made a b-line for the Lido since we were starving --- then we spent the rest of the afternoon at leisure (as they say on the ship).

This afternoon the Captain made an announcement that we would not be going to Cartwright, Labrador tomorrow since the combination of fog and icebergs would mean he would have to go so slow that it would disrupt our entire schedule -- not to mention the danger involved in moving through an icefield in the fog..  We are heading directly to Nanotalik, Greenland -- arriving Saturday morning as scheduled.

Although disappointing -- it is part of the deal when traveling in these waters.  As we were finishing dinner this evening --- we were offered a glass of champagne compliments of the Captain -- nice touch!

We have been fortunate to visit this town with less than 300 inhabitants but such a full history as a 16th Century whaling center.  Red Bay is a Canadian National Historic site and in 2013 was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site as well.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat