Day Thirty-Six - ms Veendam Arrives in Boston, MA Saturday 16 August 2014

The ms Veendam arrived at the Black Falcon Terminal in South Boston just after 7:00 am --- neither of us could bear to eat breakfast this morning -- just coffee.   We are scheduled to leave the ship at 7:45 am as independent travelers meaning we can carry our own luggage from our room off the ship.    

We walk out on Deck Six just to be sure the walk way is on Deck Five --- then we go to Deck Five to see whether they are set up for us to depart.  We are not the only ones getting off as independent travelers.    Phil and I go back to our room -- get our luggage and go down to Deck Five where we wait for about 30 to 45 minutes -- we have plenty of company.  

Apparently the hold-up is coming from the US Customs Officers who conduct passenger interviews with those who have purchased big ticket items -- the ship won't be cleared till US Customs is satisfied that they are getting their duty fees.

Finally -- we walk off the ship at 8:00 am -- go through the terminal -- hand in our custom form -- get in a cab and walk in our front door at 8:20 am.   This was one of the best parts of the trip.   We were at Shaw's by 8:45 stocking up on food.

This trip was wonderful because of all the small ports that we would not otherwise have been able to experience.    Some of these places we were glad to visit but wouldn't go back -- others we would like to revisit.    We learned so much about the North Atlantic area -- its history, its people and its landscape.  Most of the views were spectacular and indescribable.

Holland America is a good line --- although they do "nickel and dime" their passengers if allowed.   However we have traveled with them a number of times because they have great itineraries and really good food.    We rarely take their excursions -- and the shops  leave a lot to be desired -- especially the jewelry and the art work.   They do have a very good library on board with games as well as books.

Five weeks is a long time  to be on a ship -- I didn't mind being away from home that long but I learned my limit onboard a ship is about three weeks.  

Thanks to all my readers for coming along on this voyage -- I hope you enjoyed it as much as we did.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Thirty-Five - Bar Harbor, Maine Friday 15 August 2014

We are up early and packing -- our arrival into Bar Harbor is later than expected -- it was so foggy you could not even see the hand in front of you.    All passengers must go through US Immigration on the ship this morning but it really takes no time especially for US citizens.   The next step is to get a tender ticket and wait -- about 30 minutes.    They had a very large boat (seats 150) to take us the short distance to the main dock in Bar Harbor  -- we stepped off the tender at 11:00 am.

Coming into Frenchman Bay -- Bar Harbor, Maine

The last time we were in Bar Harbor was three years ago --- the changes made to this waterfront are stunning.    There are large new structures that are either condos or  hotel rooms with balconies across from the harbor.   Directly on the water is a new dock area with restaurants and shops.   It's beginning to look like Nantucket.

We head up Main Street which looks about the same with lots of shops, restaurants and ice cream places.  It is pretty crowded since there are two ships in port as well as the "regular" tourists.

Phil outside Dog & Pony

The  "Dog & Pony" Tavern hits our eye  -- just off the beaten path -- definitely a place catering to locals -- and they have free wifi.    Phil has a  beautiful plate of muscles for $8 and I indulge in a lobster roll with french fries and cole slaw for $12 -- very reasonable.   We stay here for a couple of hours --- I even had a beer.

Phil on the Shore Path

Since we really need a walk -- off we go to the "Shore Path" which was established in 1880.  This path travels  the "rocky coast of Maine" in front of several of the old mansions which are still lovely to look at.  We walk for about forty-five minutes enjoying the  views and loving the sound of the crashing waves.  We find ourselves back were the tender left us.

Love that Rocky Coast!

 We wander through town but I've about had it -- Phil stays in town at one of the taverns watching sports which he has missed since we started this trip.  Back on the ship I finish my book so I can return it to the library.

The ms Veendam leaves Bar Harbor about 7:00 pm bound for Boston -- hard to believe we've been on this ship for five weeks.

Thanks for Reading.

Pat

Day Thirty-Four - ms Veendam At Sea Thursday 14 August 2014

Woke at 5:15 am  -- read for a while then went back to sleep till 7:15 am -- late for us.

After breakfast and walking on Deck Six I download our photos -- if I don't do it right away -- I forget where and what they are.

I met Phil for the 11:00 am lecture on the Night Sky.   We both have the "Night Sky" app on our iPads but are never sure exactly what to look for.   Even after the lecture I still don't know -- I need a whole course in Astronomy to really understand what's going on up there.

What do you know -- after the lecture it's time for lunch -- then to Barbara's lecture on the next two ports -- Bar Harbor and Boston.

Phil and Pat in the Rotterdam Dining Room --

 Tonight is the last formal night -- then at 10:00 pm the Black and White Ball in the Crow's Nest -- the lounge located on the top floor at the bow of the ship.     All of the Veendam's  officers arrive (including the Captain) in their dress uniforms  -- and dance with the passengers.  

It is a lovely way to end the cruise --

This is our final day at sea on the ms Veendam -- it was very pleasant.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Thirty-Three - St. John's, Newfoundland 13 August 2014

 

St. John's Newfoundland --with Basilica.

 We arrived in St. John's about 7:30 am through a very narrow strait (called "The Narrows") docking directly on Harbour Drive.    Our dockside greeting included two police women on horseback flanking the gate and an adorable Newfie just waiting for attention.  This is a pretty town built on the side of a hill with a population of about 110,000 residents.

Arrival in St. John's

Pat with the Newfie

Phil has mapped a route for us so we begin by trekking up a steep set of stairs -- passing St. John's Anglican Cathedra which is closed.   We keep going up hill (on sidewalks now) until we see St. John the Baptist Basilica at the peak with a beautiful view of "The Narrows" -- the only way in or out of St. John's when the Basilica was built in the mid- 19th Century.

St. John the Baptist Basilica

 This land was granted to Bishop Michael Anthony Fleming by Queen Victoria (when she was quite young) with the caveat that the church be named for St. John the Baptist who was her patron saint.   The Church was consecrated 09 September 1855 and on the Centenary of the consecration in 1955 Pope Pius XII bestowed upon the cathedral the rank of Minor Basilica in recognition of its architectural and historic significance.

A neighborhood street in St. John's

 After visiting the Church (which was open) --- we walked for about a half hour down the hill and through some neighborhoods which remind me of San Francisco.   We came back up the hill to "The Rooms" -- St. John's museum complex.  It is located  across the street from the Basilica.  The Rooms opens at 10:00 am -- we are there.   It is crowded -- with tour buses and school groups -- we wonder if it will be worthwhile and decide not to go in.  Instead we go back to the Basilica for their 10:30 am free tour.

Hogan's "The Dead Christ"

 We made the right decision -- our guide at the Basilica is Stephanie.  She is knowledgeable and very sweet -- there are four of us on her tour.   We hear the history of the stained glass windows, how the Basilica was built and  the contributions of each of the early bishops.   On the altar we see  "The Redeemer In Death" or  "The Dead Christ" -- a horizontal statue of Jesus by the Irish Artist John Hogan (1800-1858).  This is the last of Hogan's  three versions of  "The Dead Christ" --  the other two are in Ireland.   We walked around the back of the altar and into the crypt where five bishops are buried.    At the completion of the tour -- we thanked Stephanie and made a donation.   

The crypt under the altar at Basilica

 At Stephanie's suggestion, we made a quick stop at the Presentation Sisters Convent next to the Basilica to see the "Veiled Virgin" -- a Carrara marble statue carved by the Italian Sculptor Giovanni Strazza (1818-1875) and brought to St. John's in 1856 by Bishop John Thomas Mullock who was Bishop Fleming's successor.  It is beautiful.

The Veiled Virgin

We then hotfooted it back down the hill to the Information Center to see about the $5 trolley tour  which we spotted in a brochure.   Since our time is limited and we have seen several of the sights on the  trolley route we decide it is not for us.

Railway Coastal Museum

 Our next visit is the Railway Coastal Museum which is a twenty minute walk from the Information Center.  It is now raining but not real hard and the temperature is good. This museum details the establishment of the railway system in Newfoundland during the late 19th Century.  In addition to boards showing the chronological history, there are life-size dioramas of the interior of the rail cars as they looked in the 1940's -- complete with passengers dressed in the garb of the day.  There is the dining car -- sleeping car -- mail car --- club car, etc.   The dioramas take up the entire back wall of the museum.  

Phil at the original door - Newman Wine Vault

 On our way back to the ship -- we pass the Newman Wine Vaults -- we stop in. These vaults (not always used to age wine) were built in the 16th Century.  Our guide tells us that the original purpose is not known --- but the harbor came right up to the front door so it was easy to unload the wine barrels (or other items) from the ships and roll them inside.   The original "ladder" used for this purpose is still there for us to see.    The wine being aged here was port wine from Portugal.   The wine was made in Portugal -- loaded on ships --- brought to Newfoundland -- aged for 4 to 5 years -- then brought to England for sale.

Newman Wine Vault

 Apparently this operation ceased 50 or so years ago --- since in order for the wine to say "made in Portugal" --- the entire process had to occur in Portugal.   We learned something and had a sample of the port before we left.

Continuing down the street -- we pop into a few shops -- and are back on board the ship by 2:00 pm -- just in time to make lunch in the Lido.

We have thoroughly enjoyed St. John's -- it is a friendly and active city -- with senior discounts everywhere.

Thanks for Reading.

Pat

Leaving St. John's through The Narrows

Day Thirty-Two - St. Anthony, Newfoundland Tuesday 12 August 2014

The ms Veendam arrived in St. Anthony about 7:00 am while we have breakfast .  The ship is cleared by 8:15 and we step off the tender at 9:30am.   St. Anthony has a population of about 2500 people and is all about Sir Wilfred Grenfell.  

The tender docks at the Grenfell Historic Properties operated by the Sir Wilfred Thomason Grenfell Historical Society.   You might wonder "Who is this guy?"  I certainly did.  

Born in 1865 in the north of England -- Sir Grenfell is credited with being the man who changed the life of the people of Labrador and Newfoundland.   He joined the Royal National Mission To Deep Sea Fisherman shortly after entering  the London Hospital Medical School in 1883.    In 1892 he was sent to Newfoundland to investigate the conditions in the Labrador fishery.   He was the first doctor to visit the region.  The deplorable conditions he found inspired his lifelong passion to help these people live better lives.   Dr. Grenfell practiced medicine, built hospitals (including hospital ships), established schools and orphanges.   He also developed cottage industries such as rugmaking so people had something to do when fishing was slow.  He was a model of  how "one man can make a difference".   Although he also inspired many others to help since he knew he could not do this alone.

Model of one of Grenfell's Hospital Ships.

We toured the museum -- watched a short film on his life and visited his home.  I love house museums and this one was fabulous.   The house where he, his wife, Ann and their three children lived was built in 1910  --- high on a hill overlooking the harbor.    It looks just like they were still living in it.   He died in 1940 and she two years earlier.

Phil in the Grenfell's Living Room!

Pat on the Grenfell's Porch!

Leaving the house we walked to the hospital where in their entrance rotunda are several murals carved on the walls.   The artist is Jordi Bonet and the scenes celebrate the cultures of Newfoundland and the importance of the Grenfell Mission in the development of the region.   Very impressive!

Phil in the Grenfell's Kitchen!

Pat on the Approach to the Grenfell's house!

Well -- we're hungry so it must be lunch time --  on we go in search of a place to eat with wifi -- a tall order we realize.   "Jungle Jim's" -- a tavern of sorts located in a hotel fits the bill --- the food is good and they have wifi.  

After lunch, on the two mile walk back to the tender dock -- we pass Riff's -- so we go in.  This is St. Anthony's "WalMart".   Phil has broken his reading glasses so he hoped to find a pair at Riff's -- nothing to his liking was here.

Phil at Jungle Jim's!

 Just on the other side of the tender dock is a supermarket and a pharmacy.  As soon as we enter the supermarket the smell of the baking croissants lets me know I am in a supermarket in the North Atlantic  -- but no reading glasses just sunglasses.

The pharmacy has reading glasses but not the strength that he needs.  He's using my back-up glasses so he is fine.

Well we have had another full day -- this time in St. Anthony, Newfoundland ---

St. Anthony, Newfoundland from the Sea!

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Thirty-One - ms Veendam At Sea Monday 11 August 2014

Woke at 5:15 am this morning -- we set our clocks back one half hour last night to get  on Newfoundland time.   After reading for a while ("The Language of Bees" by Laurie King)  -- met Phil for breakfast.    Our location expert, Barbara, gave a talk at 10:00 am on our next two ports-- St. Anthony and St. John's -- Newfoundland.

I had a nice walk on Deck Six at 11:00 am before meeting Phil for lunch.    Then it was off to a movie at 1:00 pm and the Passenger's Talent Show at 3:00 pm.    The talent show was pretty good with about 7 or 8 acts -- mostly singing.   However, an eleven year old girl showed her expertise in Irish Step Dancing and another young boy played the piano.  The best was a couple who danced the ChaCha --- they've been dancing together for sixty years.

Ruther, Made, Pat and Paguna

This is a good time to showcase our waitstaff in the Rotterdam Dining Room.   These guys have been fantastic.   The food on board is very good but the service they provided has been second to none.  Made is the Head Dining Steward, Paguna is the Assistant Dining Steward and Ruther is our Wine Steward.   These guys have made our dining experience on board most pleasurable!

Well that's the day ---

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Thirty - Qaqortoq, Greenland Sunday 10 August 2014

The ms Veendam arrived at anchor in Qaqortoq about 7:00 am as we were having breakfast in Lido.  We need to tender into town but the ship has no formal tours so --  no rush.   Our tender arrives in town about 8:30 am and immediately we see  the "Welcome To Qaqortoq" sign on the outside of the Tourist Shop which also serves as an Information Center -- although there is not much information to be had.

Qaqortoq from ms Veendam!

 Some of the local artists have set up tables outside the tourist shop selling jewelry -- sealskin slippers, purses, gloves -- a variety of other stuff.   I was surprised to see items made from seal -- I thought seal was an endangered species.    We started walking -- passing the Red Church with it's "baby" Church next door -- a cemetery with all white crosses of various ages -- a lovely bubbling stream of water rushing down from the mountains..

Old Red Church with "Baby" Church on Bubbling Stream!

The cemetery with its white crosses.

 There are three supermarkets in town -- two of them are open this morning and seem to be doing a brisk business -- not just with cruise people but with locals as well.  In search of wifi -- we are hopeful that the hotel will have a café with free wifi -- no such luck.  They have a café which opens at 10:00 am but no wifi. 

As we wander around this town of about 3,000 people -- I can't help but think of how limited their world is.   It does not appear that there is any way to get out of here except by boat.  We see a few cars  -- a couple of them are taxis -- three are police cars parked in front of the station.   We see one guy driving to the grocery store in this huge tractor with a shovel on the front.

Phil by local tavern -- Arctic Cafe -- not open when we were there.

I wonder what they think when they see all of us strolling around their town looking for wifi?   They probably think we're nuts -- and maybe we are.   It is curious to visit these small towns and see how people live simple happy lives doing whatever they do.   Although, having said that I must report that there are several large satellite dishes on the hills surrounding Qaqortoq.   

About 10:30 am a trio of musicians set up  in the plaza surrounding the  "oldest fountain" and start playing popular songs -- they are very talented.   More people are arriving from the ship so the streets are filling up with cruise people.

A last look at Qaqortoq!

We have finally seen all there is to see in Qaqortoq so catch a tender back to the ship about 11:15 am.  -- just in time for lunch.

The ms Veendam leaves Qaqortoq  at  4:00 pm enroute to St. Anthony, Newfoundland, Canada.    Tomorrow will be another sea day with arrival Tuesday morning.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Twenty-Nine - Cruising Prince Christian Sund -- South Greenland Saturday 09 August 2014

Icebergs are All Over!

 Today the ms Veendam cruises through Prince Christian Sund along the southern coast of Greenland enroute to Qarqortog.    The scenery is indescribable -- Phil was up at 4:15 taking photos beginning with the sunrise.    Icebergs were everywhere  -- the ship  winds its way by fjords and in an out of the icebergs.  The weather couldn't be better -- a bit crisp but sunny and comfortable to be outside.   The location guide, Barbara, provides scenic commentary through out the day -- broadcast on all outside decks and the Crow's Nest at the bow of the ship.

Where did this sailboat come from ?

 The ship is more active today than I've seen it since we boarded -- people are walking all over the place taking photos and enjoying the spectacular scenery.  About 4:30 as we exited Prince Christian Sund -- the fog rolled in --- nothing was visible.   Thank you, Captain, the timing was perfect --

The ship winding through the inlets.

After lunch I finished "The Emperor of All Maladies" -- and highly recommend it.  Then I walked on Deck six for 30 minutes -- more crowded than usual.  I went to Mass at 5:00 pm -- and we had a very nice dinner at 8:00 pm.  

Map showing the inlets we traveled all day!

That was our day.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Twenty-Eight - ms Veendam At Sea Friday 08 August 2014

We are on our way back to Greenland -- two days at sea.   Phil and I were in the Lido by 6:30 am -- we turned our clocks back an hour last night so the whole ship is up early.

  

After breakfast I went to a briefing on upcoming ports --- wrote a blog post -- and continued reading "The Emperor of All Maladies: The Biography of Cancer" by  Siddhartha Mukherjee.  I downloaded this a couple of years ago and started it several times but this time I am going to finish it.  It is lengthy but very interesting and written for the layperson.   I recently heard that Ken Burns is  making a documentary of this  book. 

Then it was time for lunch -- amazing how that happens.

After lunch I decided to go to a movie and on the way to the theatre I discovered a silent auction inside on Deck Six to benefit a charity in one of the Candadian ports coming up.  There were lots of scarves, caps, mittens, and small afghans knitted by people on board the ship -- and other miscellaneous things donated by Holland America.   I bid on several items.

The movie was a British film -- "The Girl in the Café" -- with Bill Nighy.  It was entertaining with sort of a message. 

Before dinner -- I joined Phil for happy hour and Trivia  --

All in all it was a nice day at sea --

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Twenty-Seven - Reykjavik, Iceland Thursday 07 August 2014

 

We are having breakfast in the Lido at 7:30 am -- when it seems like a good idea to walk all the way to town---a pretty walk along the waterfront --  about  45 minutes. 

Kaffitar for Coffee!

After using the facilities at Harpa Concert Hall -- we head in the direction of the old harbor to see if the Flea Market is open --- apparently it is only weekends.    To figure out our plan for the day a stop at  Kaffitar for a coffee and a chocolate croissant seems in order.

Pat by Tjornin Pond!

Our route takes us over to Tjornin Pond -- in the middle of Reykjavik --  it was used as a dump in times past.   It is a beautiful spot today  --  Reykjavik City Hall is located  on the pond and several old mansions line another side.   We walked through several neighborhoods -- coming out behind the iconic Lutheran Church -- back down the shopping street stopping at a pharmacy.  Since I had spotted a thrift shop near the oldest street -- we headed in that direction to see if it was open.  It was -- I went in but nothing hit my fancy --  very small.

The Shopping Street -- Pedestrians Only!

To spend our last 2500 Icelandic Kroners  (about $25) -- a bit to eat makes sense.    Uno right in the square seems like a good choice -- our table had a nice view of activities on the plaza.   The "meal" consists of  a coffee, a beer and rosemary/parmesean french fries --- using up all of our kroners with enough for a tip.    

The View from ms Veendam!

 The shuttle back to the ship allowed us to enjoy a relaxing afternoon until  4:30 pm.  As the ship tried to pull away from the dock it became evident that something wasn't going well.   The Captain announced that because of the winds one tugboat would not be  strong enough to pull the ms Veendam away from the dock.  He  ordered another tug which eventually arrived and the ship successfully pulled away from the dock --   we are on our way to Greenland.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat